Long Term Food Storage-PT 2 Storage
There are three ways of storing foods for long term use; Descendants, Nitrogen and Dry Ice. I've tried to suit these to an Australian context as most of the information on the net is suited to other countries where different products and pricing are available.
There are two types of desiccants or moisture absorbers, short term that lasts for six months without opening then once opened only last for twenty minutes and those that last for a year before needing to use. These can last up to two hours once exposed to the environment.
These need to be used in conjunction with mylar bags as they form a partial vacuum and can cause the collapse of a pail. When used with mylar only the bags contract and use the structure of the buckets for support. The amount of desiccants need to matched to the size of the container being used to remove the correct amount of moisture. The bags cannot be used alone as they are easy to puncture. I haven't been able to locate a local supplier for either the mylar bags or food grade moisture absorbers.
Nitrogen can be used immediately, as the pails can be closed as soon as they are full. This may be a good choice if sharing the cost between several people for large amounts of buckets to be sealed.
To rent a food grade nitrogen bottle G size 8000 litres weighing 60 kilo at five foot in height costs approximately $150/yr for the bottle, $110 for the gas, $175 for the regulator, not counting hoses and still requiring transportation. Bringing a subtotal to $450 or there about.NOTE: when using Nitrogen in enclosed spaces it becomes deadly.
Using Dry Ice costs $6.50/kilo in pellet form requiring approximately 10 kilo or $50 - $60 for the amount of containers I would need to fill. Dry Ice forms CO2 as it melts, removing the O2. The idea is to remove as much oxygen as possible to stop oxidization and to prevent insects from mulitplying through their life cycles. NOTE: when handling dry ice it can burn. Always wear safety glasses and gloves when handling.
I want to use 10-15 kilo buckets as these will fit under a double size bed, stored out of the way and are light enough to be easily moved without the need of a sack truck. If one pail should become contaminated or have broken seal, only a small amount of the stores will be effected and not the entire amount.
The smallest food grade buckets/pails I've been able to find hold 15 litres/15kgs are 13inches/330mm in height with lid or 290mm without and 12inches/300mm in width. The lids have a rubber seal in the base of the lip and a tamper seal on the lips edge, preventing removal with out first removing the tamper strip.
This size will fit 24 containers under a double bed frame and are light enough filled, to be easily moved for either rotation or possible evacuation. A sack truck is still needed to move more than one container at a time.
I was considering importing Gamma seal screw on lids from the States costing $6.85US ea not including shipping subtotal $168US or $200AUD before shipping is included. It costs $228AUD for 24 buckets and lids from the local manufacturer. Other than the cost, what sold me with using the push on lids were the tamper seal, luckily these are reusable.You definitely know that no one has gotten curious and decided to open any of the pails to see what's inside and release the carbon dioxide stuffing up hours of preserving. These have cost me $6.36/bucket and $2.27/lid with 0.87 GST/EA coming to a total of $9.50EA or $228/24 containers.
I like using mylar bags in association with buckets, this is the simplest and easiest way to store food long term. NOTE: Do not use O2 absorbers and Moisture aborbers in the same container unless in a high humidity area and then do not place in close proximity to one another or either wont work. These can be brought from Sorbent Systems or straight off Eprey. Eprey have deals where the bags and the correct size O2 aborbers are sold together. A 5 Gallon bag 4.3mm in thickness measuring 20 x 30 inches generally requires from 2x750cc=1500cc to 2000cc O2 absorbers.
Generally 10 cups of wheat will make approximately 14 cups of flour. This depends on how fine you are grinding and the type of grinder being used.
10 cups of wheat makes 14 cups of flour
1 Litre = 1 Kilogram
4 cups per 1 litre/kilogram
60 cups per 15 litres/kilograms
60 cups of wheat should make 84 cups of flour or
42 loaves of bread per 15 litre bucket
This is an article I put together a while ago, while trying to learn about building glocks and aftermarket parts. Finally have all the components and have started building it. Updates and pics to follow. I ended up with building a Glock over other model pistols due to the ease of aftermarket parts and 10 minutes on youtube will let you do all the work yourself without having to need a gunsmith.
Building a Glock Research
I was undecided on whether to start and do a build on a custom STI tactical 4.15 with an extended 5 inch barrel to be of legal length in oz or buy a Glock and came across the following picture on the m4carbine forum, which sort of settled the choice for me. That and finding several Australian importers of glock parts, that hadn’t been available to me in the past making buying the accessories and parts much easier than importing from overseas due to current import restrictions. It also allowed me to do most of the work myself, unlike working on a STI 2011. http://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=95628
The following link describes how to break the trigger down into its separate components, in order to understand how modifying each one can change the characteristics of the trigger and gun as a whole. http://militarytimes.com/blogs/gearscout/2012/01/01/glock-setup-tips/
There are three main components to the Glock trigger action that determine pull weight: the connector, firing pin spring, and trigger spring. I will be discussing these along with barrel choices, guide rod recoil springs, guide rod weight and combinations of these. The following information is all I could find to learn about building a Glock, since I had never owned one before.
Firstly Guide Rods;
To start with in Glocks guide rods have absolutely no effect on the accuracy of your pistol. In a standard 1911 the guide rod, being so short, only guides the spring at the end of the rearward action. This allows the spring to move from side to side in the frame channel and could allow interference. The full length guide rod forces the spring to stay centered and slide along the guide rod reducing the interference. Ti is worthless for guide rods, you want heavier not lighter. Steel is only slightly heavier but if you are really in tune with your gun you can feel a subtle difference in the handling. Tungsten is much heavier than steel and makes a significant difference.
Below are some guiderod weights. Aftermarket rods are all same brand. Weights do not include the recoil spring.
Stock 17 2.04 grams = 0.071 ounce
Captured Stainless 17 18.3 gr = 0.645 oz
Cap Tungsten 17 34.18 gr = 1.206 oz
Non-cap Tungsten 34 44.56 gr = 1.572 oz
When compared to stock the tungsten is significantly heavier. When compared to stainless the tungsten is almost double the weight. Here is where it gets real interesting. An empty G17 weighs 625 grams. Adding a captured tungsten rod increases the total weight of the gun by more than 5% and in a key location. An empty g34 weighs in at 650 grams. With an extended tungsten rod you are increasing the total weight by almost 7%.
Something that weighs less than 2 ounces may not seems like much but it does make a significant difference in recovery from recoil.
My personal view
I’m using a model 22 in 40cal and converting it to a 9mm. This will bring up the barrel wall thickness and also the front weight of the firearm. I am therefore sticking to a steel guide rod. If I were using a stock thickness competition barrel I would then use a Tungsten rod.
Captured Vs. Non-Captured;
I personally use non captured rods. It is easier to swap out springs and with a little practice it is not any harder to assemble your pistol. There is no mechanical advantage or disadvantage to either, it’s just personal preference. If using a single load, such as when reloading a captured system is easier to install when cleaning. It’s similar to a bolt with a nut on the end that keeps the spring under tension. The advantage of non-captured is when working up loads or using more than one type of factory load and wanting to tune the firearm to the load being used. I generally use three different loads. A 147 grain subsonic at 980fps, my usual load is a Hornady steel match 125 grain running at 1100fps that cost $280 per 500 and ex-military FMJ plus P loads which cost $350 per 1000 rounds. An uncaptured spring set up allows me to change them out using a $12 spring, whereas with a captured system you have to replace the entire guide rod and spring.
KKM vs. Stormlake vs. Lonewolf. There are three links below comparing the three brands. From what I can tell there isn’t that much difference. If I were to choose a standard wall thickness match grade barrel, to fit in a standard slide assembly 9mm to 9mm, without opting to use a conversion/bull barrel 40smith to 9mm luger. I would probably choose a KKM due to the type manufacture, using button rifling.
Button rifling is a process, in which a Titanium Nitride coated Carbide button is pulled under pressure to displace metal to produce a rifled barrel. This process is very expensive but produces a better finished size, surface finish, and surface hardness as well as maintains a more uniform rate of twist than any other rifling process. Each button can be used to produce thousands a barrels before wearing undersized. This allows us to maintain the highest level of quality control.
That’s if I wanted to wait 6 months for the import process to occur in this country and could be bothered filling out B709 forms. If choosing a bull barrel style conversion it would be between a Stormlake and a Lonewolf as KKM don’t make a conversion barrel. The same import process would be required for the Stormlake. Lonewolf have an importer listed below. Hence the lonewolf is my choice.
Note: I have been told that KKM barrels are very tight and some require minor fitting.
The NY trigger are a coil spring within a frame as opposed to factory coil spring, the modules alter the internal geometry and relationship of the trigger linkage. You now have a spring pushing straight up on the back of the cruciform, instead of applying pressure at an angle. The result is a smooth trigger pull and a clean break, with a lightning-fast reset.
Dawson are just reselling the Glock Triggers kit. It removes pre-travel and gives a nice trigger: reduced travel and light pull, not for use on anything but a competition gun. I would offer one word of caution: you need to be very careful about setting the over travel stop and make sure that it does not creep out of adjustment, by using a little blue Loctite.
The Ghost Rocket is not a trigger kit, it is just a connector with a fixed over travel stop that needs to be fitted to an individual gun by filing. It works well, but it is not a complete trigger kit.
NOTE; If you have a Glock that has a couple thousand rounds through it your trigger is already lapped in. If you replace the trigger bar or connector in this gun, it will feel terrible. Any part that is replaced into a lapped system needs to be lapped in itself before a reliable evaluation can be made.
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